2005 William Hatcher Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
The fruit reveals the wine to the winemaker. Accordingly, the winemaker shepherds the wine rather than makes it. Notably, there is no word for "winemaker" in French, Italian or Spanish: one is vigneron, viticoltore or vinicultor, the idea being that the wine is made in the vineyard. In a given vintage, the optimal blend may comprise only half or so of the barrels I make. As with preparation of a fine meal, it is a question of what precisely informs the whole. Too much of the finest ingredient may overwhelm the balance. Thus, Rex Hill and A to Z are always blessed with some beautiful barrels.
The 2005 greets the nose with suggestions of dried cherries and plums, leathery notes, vanilla and pencil. The palate is redolent of converves - plum, cane berries, cranberry - with a silky texture that finishes long on fine tannins. With its firm acidic backbone, the wine will continue to develop and please for 10 to 15 years.
Spring came grudgingly to the Valley, the chill and rain persisting well into May to curtail bud and shoot development so that like 2004, there was ultimately no need for thiinning in late summer. The summer itself remained relatively cool pushing the harvest well into October. The autumn smiled on us, however, with gentle warmth punctuated by only a few rain showers. The slow ripening coaxed elegantly integrated flavors that are the hallmark of classical Oregon Pinot Noir.
